Jeffrey M. Pilcher, Hopped Up: How Travel, Trade, and Taste Made Beer a Global Commodity, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2024.

01.

實踐簡介

A lively history of beer and brewing traditions as globally connected commodities created through borrowing and exchange from precapitalist times to the present.

Virtually every country has a bestselling or iconic national beer brand: from Budweiser in the United States and Corona in Mexico, to Tsingtao in China and Heineken in Holland. Yet, with the sole exception of Ireland's Guinness, every label represents the same style: light, crisp, clear, Pilsner lager. The global spread of lager can be told as a story of Western cultural imperialism: a European product travels through merchants, migrants, and imperialists to upend local patterns and transform faraway consumers' tastes. But this modern beer is just as much a product of globalization, invented and reinvented around the world. While distinctive craft beers such as London Porter, India Pale Ale, and Belgian sour ales have been revived by aficionados over the past half-century, they too have globalized through the same circuits of trade, migration, and knowledge that carried lager.

Here eminent food historian Jeffrey M. Pilcher narrates the brewing traditions and contemporary production of beer across Europe, North America, Africa, Asia, and Latin America--from the fermented beverages of precapitalist societies to the present. Over the centuries, he shows, the exchange of technological advances in brewing contributed to regional divergences and convergences in beer varieties, but always in tandem with other social and cultural developments. Unique local products, often homebrewed by women, were transformed into homogenous global commodities as giant brewing factories exported their beers using new refrigeration technology, railroads, and steamships. Industrial food processing helped to recast strong flavors as a source of potential contamination, turning lager, with its clean, fresh taste, into a symbol of hygiene and civilization. Local elites demonstrated their modernity and sophistication by opting for chilled lagers over traditional beverages. These beers became so standardized that most consumers could not tell the difference between them, leading to cutthroat competition that bankrupted countless firms. Over the past half-century, the global concentration of the brewing industry has spawned a reaction among those seeking to return brewing to the local, artisanal, and communitarian roots of the premodern alehouse, but microbrewers have often been driven by the same capitalist quest for profit and expansion.

Based on a wealth of multinational archives and industry publications, Hopped Up explores not only how humans have made beer but also how consumers--from nobility and clergy in the past to those raising a pint today--have used beer to make meaning in their lives.

本書純真發揮了啤酒過甚釀造傳統怎樣通過前成本見識時間于今的模仿與交流，發展成為大家互聯的商品。

確實每個國度齊有其暢銷或標志性的國民啤酒品牌：從好意思國的百威到墨西哥的科羅娜，從中國的青島啤酒到荷蘭的喜力。干系詞，除了愛爾蘭的健力士，統統品牌齊代表著統一種格調：清淡、領路、透明的皮爾森拉格啤酒。 拉格啤酒的大家傳播不錯被態狀為西方文化帝國見識的故事：一種歐洲家具通過商東談主、僑民和帝國見識者的傳播，顛覆了當地模式并更正了遼遠陡然者的口味。但這種現代啤酒相同是大家化的產物，辭寰宇各地束縛立異與再立異。固然倫敦波特啤酒、印度淺色艾爾啤酒和比利時酸艾爾等具有特質的精釀啤酒在當年半個世紀里被啤酒青睞者再行回應，但它們也通過與拉格啤酒疏導的貿易、搬動和常識傳播渠談結束了大家化。

聞明食物史學家杰弗里·M·皮爾徹在本書中敘述了 歐洲、北好意思、非洲、亞洲和拉丁好意思洲的啤酒釀造傳統和現代坐褥情況——從前成本見識社會的發酵飲料一直到現在。數個世紀以來，他展示了 釀造時候跳動的交流怎樣促進了啤酒品種的地區性各異與趨同，但這歷久與其他社會文化發展相互交匯。特有的方位家具，絡續由女性在家庭中釀造，跟著大型啤酒廠詐欺新的制冷時候、鐵路和汽船出口其家具，遲緩飄零為同質化的大家商品。工業食物加工助推了東談主們將濃烈滋味視作潛在稠濁源的不雅念飄零，使極新爽口的拉格啤酒成為衛生與時髦的標志。當地精英階級通過選拔冰鎮拉格啤酒而非傳統飲品來展示其現代性與簡約試吃。這些啤酒變得如斯順序化，以致于大多數陡然者無法永別它們之間的各異，導致熱烈的競爭使無數企業停業。在當年半個世紀里，啤酒行業的大家薈萃化催生了一種響應， 一些東談主試圖將釀造業回首到前現代酒館的方位性、工藝性和社群性根源，但微型釀酒商絡續也被疏導的成本見識利潤追乞降擴展祈望所運轉。

基于多量跨國檔案和行業出書物的辯論，《躍動的啤酒》不僅探討了東談主類怎樣釀造啤酒，還探討了陡然者——從當年的貴族和神職東談主員到今天碰杯酣飲的東談主們——怎樣詐欺啤酒來為我方的糊口賦予道理。

02.

評述

Alcohol-and especially beer-has been at the center of human civilization from its very beginning. This entertaining, informative book uses beer as a powerful lens through which to view various historical trends over recent centuries, especially globalization and the backlash against it. Highly recommended.

—Edward Slingerland, Author of Drunk: How We Sipped, Danced, and Stumbled Our Way to Civilization

Jeffrey Pilcher takes readers on an encyclopedic beer crawl around the globe and across many centuries. Even if you think you 'know' beer, you will likely find a surprise on every page. A tour de force.

—Maureen Ogle, Author of Ambitious Brew: A History of American Beer

There are few products whose history can be traced hand-in-hand with that of civilization on this planet. Beer, then, is quite unique. And there are few authors who have been able to convincingly and authoritatively detail the evolution of beer and brewing from the ancient Fertile Crescent to the complexities of the brewing business in these times of dramatic change. Pilcher's book is a triumph.

—Charlie Bamforth, Senior Quality Advisor, Sierra Nevada Brewing Company and University of California, Davis

A much-needed, wide-ranging, and occasionally polemical counterpunch to received wisdom on everything from the rise of pale lager to the spread of craft beer, and the movements, social, economic, political, and technological, that drove developments in beer and brewing over the centuries. Hopped Up will be essential reading for anyone wanting to understand the contemporary global beer scene and how we arrived where we are today.

—Martyn Cornell, Author of Around the World in 80 Beers

Hopped Up is packed full of fascinating facts, from the origins of brewing to the rivalries that shaped British industrial beer brewing to the meaning behind the label 'Pilsner.' The stories in Hopped Up illustrate how, time and again, these kinds of interactions between brewers, regulators, and consumers have helped to create new beer cultures.

—Foreign Policy

乙醇——尤其是啤酒——從時髦來源就處于東談主類時髦的中樞位置。這本既道理道理又富余啟發性的著述以啤酒為蒼勁的透鏡，透視了近幾個世紀的多樣歷史趨勢，特地是大家化過甚反彈。強烈推選。

——愛德華·斯林格蘭德，《醉了：咱們怎樣啜飲、跳舞，蹣跚著走向時髦》作家

杰弗里·皮爾徹指導讀者伸開了一場環球百科式的啤酒之旅，橫跨數個世紀。即使你以為我方"了解"啤酒，也很可能在每一頁齊能發現驚喜。這是一部極品。

——莫琳·奧格爾，《自利自為的釀造：好意思國啤酒史》作家

梗概與地球時髦史聯袂同業的家具三三兩兩。啤酒因此獨具特質。梗概令東談主敬佩且巨擘地臚陳啤酒和釀造業從古代裕如眉月地區到現在巨變時期復雜啤酒營業演變的作家也歷歷。皮爾徹的著述是一次進軍沖突。

——查理·班福想，內華達山脈啤酒公司高檔質地參謀人，加州大學戴維斯分校

這是一部急需且視線眾多的著述，它對從淺色拉格啤酒的興起到精釀啤酒的傳播，以及數世紀以來鼓勵啤酒與釀造業發展的社會、經濟、政事和時候指引等一切既有剖析建議了偶有爭議的有勁反駁。《躍動的啤酒》關于任何想要意會現代大家啤酒口頭過甚造成經過的東談主來說齊是必讀之作。

——馬丁·科內爾，《環游寰宇品80種啤酒》作家

《躍動的啤酒》充滿悠悠忘返的史實，從釀造的發祥到塑造英國工業啤酒釀造的競爭，再到"皮爾森"標簽背后的含義。書中的故事展示了釀酒商、監管者和陡然者之間的這些互動怎樣一次又一次地匡助創造新的啤酒文化。

——《應答策略》

03.

作家簡介

Jeffrey M. Pilcher is Professor of History and Food Studies at the University of Toronto. He is the author and editor of numerous books, including Planet Taco: The Global History of Mexican Food (OUP 2012), The Oxford Handbook of Food History (OUP 2012), and Food in World History.

杰弗里·M·皮爾徹是多倫多大學歷史學和食物辯論栽植。他著有和主編多部著述，包括《星球玉米餅：墨西哥食物的大家史》（牛津大學出書社，2012年）、《牛津食物史手冊》（牛津大學出書社j9九游會官方，2012年）和《寰宇歷史中的食物》。